'Waza' preparing 'Wazwan' in traditioanal way. Source: https://www.outlookindia.com/public/uploads/gallery/20180721/Kashmiri-Wazwan_20180724.jpg
The flavours of Kashmir are incomplete without the mention of ‘Wazwan’. It is a culinary delight and strongly binds with the culture of the valley infused with the traditional Kashmiri spices. Wazwan is prepared in traditional copper-nickel vessels upon the smouldering wood from old fruit trees.
It is customary for people to relish this royal feast during weddings, parties, and celebrations. Wazwan is not only a part of cuisine but a complete ceremony in itself. But what is the ‘Wazwan’? Read on to know more about this sumptuous feast.
Traditional 'Wazwan' dishes served in 'traem'. Source: https://moha-mushkil.com/battle-of-kahmiri-wazwan/
‘Wazwan’ is a multi-course meal in Kashmiri cuisine that is largely meat-based. It is a part of the valley for ages and is prepared by chefs in a traditional style that has been passed on through the generations. It is prepared by a team of chefs called ‘waza’ under the guidance of the head chef or ‘Vasta Waza’.
‘Waz’ means ‘special chef’ and ‘wan’ means ‘shop or a place where the meal is cooked’. Wazwan consists of 12 to 36 dishes which are predominantly prepared with the meat of various kinds and a few vegetarian dishes.
The major dishes which are a part of Wazwan are- Rogan Josh, Tabak Maaz, Rishta, Seekh Kababs, Methi Maaz, Safed Kokur, and Gushtaba. There are a few notable vegetarian dishes included as well- Ruangan Chaman, Waza Palak, Muji Chetin, and Yakhni.
'Tash-e-naer', the traditional copper jug and portable basin to wash hands. Source: https://auralcrave.com/en/2020/09/06/the-wazwan-the-masterpiece-of-kashmiri-cuisine/
The ceremony starts with the guests being seated in a group of four on ‘kaleen’ spread on the floor. Once everyone is seated, the attendants bring the guests ‘Tash-e-Naer’ which is an arrangement of washing hands. ‘Tash’ is a hand-engraved copper jug and ‘Naer’ is a portable copper basin. After hand-washing is complete, the guests ceremoniously remember the god.
After this, the ‘traems’ are brought to the dining area covered with ‘sarposh’. The trammi or traems are huge copper platters beautifully engraved with traditional designs while sarposh is a copper lid of the platter. The main course is served and the attendants serve the guests continuously with various dishes. Gushtaba is served at the end of the meal.
Traditional 'traem' and 'sarposh' is made of copper and engraved with beautiful designs. Source: https://www.kanzandmuhul.com/products/trami-sarposh
Desserts are served at the end of the meals. The ‘Tash-e-Naer’ is put forth the guests once again for them to wash their hands. Everyone present there then remembers the god and thanks for a sumptuous feast. This signifies the end of ‘Wazwan’. After thanking God, nobody eats anything.
The ‘Wazwan’ signifies unity and equality among the valley people. As a rule, everyone must sit on the floor to eat. Also, there is no discrimination in caste, class or creed of the guests. People from all religions and castes are welcome and they all sit together and share the food during the Wazwan ceremony.
Wazwan is the culinary delight of Kashmir signifying the strong culture and traditions influenced by various countries and rulers since time immemorial. The feast is said to signify unity and brotherhood as it is eaten in a group. Wazwan is not only a royal member of Kashmiri cuisine but also a ceremony in itself.
The royal feast includes largely meat-based dishes and a few vegetarian dishes. The Kashmiri spices and dry fruits are used in abundance and the signature red colour is obtained by the Cockscomb flowers. Vegetarian dishes are prepared using lotus stem, cottage cheese and leafy vegetables.
Reportedly having culinary ties and influence of Arabic, Persian, Mughal and other central Asian countries, the 'Wazwan' is a feast prepared in traditional pots and pans. The Wazwan is served at weddings, parties, and other celebrations. It is a social experience worth undergoing to witness Kashmiri culture closely which is rich in traditions.